Serica Parade: The Watch That Grew on Me
I learned about Serica last year when I was researching mechanical watches under 1,000€. The story of this French microbrand started in 2019 with a field watch simply named the W.W.W., short for Wrist Watch Waterproof. You can clearly see that their watches are inspired by the past, but they also feel contemporary and timeless at the same time, something most brands aim for, but few actually achieve. They have a very distinctive design language, and you can recognize similar details across all of their watches.
Serica founders Gabriel and Jérôme
I hadn’t had the chance to see their watches in person until about two months ago, when I got the Ref. 6190 Commando, and I fell in love with it (you can expect a full review very soon). But I was lucky they decided to attend Pitti Uomo this summer (#108), where they had a small corner at Sina Villa Medici with their full collection on display. Of course, I had to stop by to see them all in the flesh. So I went there one morning to meet the founders, Jérôme and Gabriel, and talk about their watches.
I was already familiar with their field watch - Ref. 6190, so I first wanted to check out the other dial variations to see how they look in person and how they feel on the wrist. Then I moved on to their diving watch, Ref. 5303. This one really wears like a vintage diver. The case diameter is 39mm, but it has a very distinctive look and finish, so you know it’s not actually vintage. The first thing you’ll notice on a Serica diver is the twin-scale bezel, which uses a ceramic insert for the elapsed time scale and a steel ring for the 12-hour scale.
The divers come with a large screw-down crown, are rated for 300m of water resistance, and come with their Vesper Mesh bracelet, which is very comfortable. I really like the look and feel of the bracelet, but I’m not a fan of the end links that attach it to the case, so I prefer the diver on a strap. It's worth noting that the mesh bracelet is compatible only with the diver models. I prefer the white dial version, Ref. 5303-2, but I was told that the most popular one is actually the Crystal Blue version, Ref. 5303-3.
Serica Ref. 5303-3
The GMT comes in the same case, so it wears almost identically, but it has a different appeal and feels like a completely different watch on the wrist. I’m not sure which one I like more: the Desert Red or the Black Enamel version. And before I forget, you can choose if the crown sits at 3 or 9 o’clock on all their watches, so even if you’re left-handed, they’ve got you covered.
The last watch I checked out and tried on was their latest release — the Ref. 1174 Parade. It’s their take on a dress watch. To be honest, when I saw this watch in the photos, it didn’t really do it for me. At that time, I would have picked any of their tool watches over the Parade.
When I finally handled it in person and put it on my wrist, I was a bit confused. I didn’t like it, but I also couldn’t say that I disliked it. It’s a really unique watch. The stainless steel case measures 35x41mm, so it’s definitely not too big. In theory, I would say it should be smaller, especially for a dress watch, but once you put it on your wrist, you realize it’s actually the right size for what this watch is.
Ref. 1174-1 Parade
I’m not sure how to explain what it is. Based on its shape and thickness, only 8.3mm, the lug-less design, and the strap that tapers from 18mm down to 14mm, which makes this watch even more elegant, you might consider it a dress watch. But then you look at it, and nothing else really reminds you of a dress watch. It has a thick brushed stainless steel bezel that screams Serica’s design language, and it’s actually very similar to their field watches. Plus, there’s a very minimalistic dial. The dial is available in satin black or sunray brass, with a curved guilloché pattern and round hour markers. The sword hands are mirror-polished and domed, so they stand out on the dial and make it easy to tell the time. It’s water-resistant to 100 meters, which makes it a very practical dress watch, but because the watch has no seconds hand, it can't be COSC-certified like their other models. It’s kind of modern, a little futuristic, and a little sporty as well, but it still wears like a dress watch.
At this point, I was even more confused, but the watch was very comfortable, so I got an idea and asked the guys if I could wear it for a day or two. I might have caught them by surprise, but they had two pieces with brass dial, so they let me keep one for a day. If I hadn’t spent that day and a half with the watch, I probably wouldn’t be writing this article. But with every hour that passed with it on my wrist, I started to understand it better, and it began to grow on me. I first tried on the black dial version, and it worked really well with my outfit because it was very monochrome, but the black dial didn’t really do it for me. So I swapped it for the brass dial version, and this one really grabbed my attention. The texture and finishing of the dial are much easier to notice, and it looks really beautiful in the sunlight.
Ref. 1174-1 Parade worn with a suit and tie
First, I wore it with pearl linen trousers from Poszetka, a Merz B. Schwanen ribbed tank top, and a midnight camp collar shirt from the Decorum Continuum collection by Kamoshita. The black strap matched the midnight shirt really well, and with this short-sleeve outfit, the watch was exposed all the time. It was getting attention from other people, and I kept looking at it too. In the evening I changed into my cream suit, paired with a white shirt and brown tie. With this outfit, a brown leather strap would have worked better, but the black strap wasn’t really a problem at all. With such a clean outfit, I started to understand the watch a lot more. I think this watch actually comes to life when you wear it with a very simple, elegant look, where fabrics and textures do the talking. That’s when you really notice the contrast between the brushed finish of the bezel and the sunray finish of the guilloché dial. The brass also matched the cream suit really well. Wearing the watch with this outfit made me realize how much I liked it, and I couldn’t stop thinking about it.
Ref. 1174-1 Parade worn with a suit and a tank top
The next day, I wore the same suit again, but this time in a much more casual way - a really simple look, paired only with a tank top. This might be when the watch stood out even more. There were no other details, just the texture of the suit and tank top, and then the watch. That's when it clicked for me. This watch is defined by what it actually is - its design language, materials, and finishing, not by a name, logo, or status. Nobody will look at it because it’s worth X or Y, and the only people who will notice it, or comment on it are those who care about the little details or simply love it's design. I think that’s really rare today, in a world where so many things are considered commodities and people want something just because it’s expensive or hard to get. That’s what makes this watch really special - you wear it for yourself, because you like it, not to impress others. So when you see someone with this watch, you know they really like it, and that’s a great compliment for the brand.
Have you ever tried any of their watches? You can check them out here.
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