Four Iconic Designs: The History of the Denim Jacket

Today, the denim jacket is considered a wardrobe essential. You can wear it with a white t-shirt and jeans, layer it over a button-down with a tie, or throw it on over a sweatshirt. It’s one of those rare pieces that works with almost anything. But a garment that is now considered a fashion staple started as workwear. The denim jacket dates back to the late 19th century and was probably adapted from denim work shirts. It was made to be a durable and functional garment for labourers, from farmers and cowboys to railroad and construction workers. These jackets were built to last, they had rugged construction and practical details that kept workers comfortable and protected.

Elvis Presley in Jailhouse Rock (1957)

Over time, the denim jacket went from being just workwear to a wardrobe staple of American style. Like Levi’s 501 jeans, it became a symbol of culture, worn by greasers, hippies, rock stars, and even rappers. Today, the denim jacket represents independence, rebellion, and freedom. When most people think of denim jackets, Levi’s usually comes to mind. But Lee’s 101J deserves credit too, as it was just as influential. In fact, there are four iconic denim jackets that defined the style and are still being copied today: Levi’s Type I, II, III, and the Lee 101J.

Levi's Type I (1905)

The denim jacket story really starts in 1905, when Levi’s released what they called the “blouse,” better known today as the Type I. It was made from the same rugged 9 oz. XX denim as their 501 jeans and was built for labourers who needed something tough but comfortable. The cut was short and boxy to give room to move, with two pleats running down the front that could be opened up if more space was needed. Other details included a single chest pocket, a cinch-back at the waist, and a buckle, silver at first, later replaced with bronze. The name "blouse" was used until 1938, when it was finally switched to “jacket” in the Dude Ranch Duds western wear catalog. But it had already been referred to as Number One in 1917. During WWII, Levi’s stripped the jacket down to save materials, but by then it had already picked up cultural momentum. Stars like Bing Crosby and Robert Mitchum were seen wearing it, which helped turn the jacket from just workwear into something fashionable.

Levi’s Type II (1953)

In 1953, Levi’s released the Type II, a cleaner version of the original that still stayed true to its workwear roots. It added a second front pocket and kept the pleated front, while the boxier fit made it more versatile for everyday wear. The Type II is often praised for balancing ruggedness with style, which is why it’s still a favorite between denim enthusiasts and collectors.

Its popularity grew through youth subcultures and the Rock and Roll movement, with stars like Elvis Presley wearing it and making it famous outside the U.S. The jacket even became an icon on screen, famously worn by Martin Sheen’s character in the 1973 cult movie Badlands. Even though rebels and workers loved it, the Type II was only made for a short time, just nine years, ending in 1962, which only added to its cult status. It connected practical workwear with casual, everyday style, setting the stage for future denim trends.

Levi’s Type III (1962)

The Type III, also known as the Trucker Jacket, was introduced in 1962 and is probably the most recognizable denim jacket today. They slimmed down the silhouette, added pointed “V” seams running from the chest pockets, and lengthened the body for a more tailored, modern fit. The Type III defined the denim jacket for generations and inspired countless versions from different brands around the world. Its design showed that denim jackets can be practical and stylish, a combination that still inspires designers today.

Lee 101J (late 1948)

Lee introduced their first denim jacket, the 101J, in 1934. The “J” stood for jacket, and it offered a slimmer, sharper look compared to Levi’s boxy designs. But the “New Lee Rider Jacket,” the version that most of us know as the 101J, was introduced in 1948. It had pointed flap pockets, zig-zag stitching on the front placket, and a shorter overall length. It immediately became popular with cowboys and Hollywood stars, showing that denim jackets could be practical while still very stylish. Even though it’s often overlooked, it’s an important part of denim history.

Robert Mitchum in Till the End of Time (1946)

All four of these designs are just different enough that they appeal to different people, which is probably why they are all still popular today.

Which denim jacket is your favorite? I’m personally prefer the Type II for its perfect balance of ruggedness and style. If you’re looking for the Type II, I’ve put together The Ultimate Guide to the Best Type II Denim Jackets.

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