Is There Such a Thing as a Summer Watch?

It might have something to do with the fact that I just booked a few days by the sea, but I’ve been really into summer watches lately.

But is there such a thing as a summer watch? The answer to that question is, like many things when it comes to style, totally subjective. Some will say that a steel sports watch is the perfect summer watch because you can swim with it, and it works for almost any occasion, so I don’t disagree. But I guess almost any watch can be a summer watch; it just depends on where you are and what you do. So, in this article, I want to talk about my idea of a summer watch.

Breitling Top Time B31 on Molequin Riviere nubuck strap

What I would call a summer watch is the watch you wear on vacation, when you're dressed as relaxed as it gets, probably spending most of the time in swim shorts with an open shirt or maybe a polo. In my mind, this watch is like a very relaxed version of a sports watch.

So, most divers make great summer watches, and you can't go wrong with a classic like the Rolex Submariner. But when I think of a summer watch, I think the new Longines HydroConquest in brighter colours, or the Breitling Superocean Heritage in brighter colours like blue or green, are even more suitable. The sunburst dial does most of the work for both on a sunny day.

My Rolex GMT “Pepsi”

But then something like the Rolex GMT-Master II "Pepsi" is also a great all-around summer watch because the blue and red also pop a bit in the sunshine, while still being subtle enough to wear with most casual outfits. And there are many other steel sports watches with colourful bezels and dials (like IWC Ingenieur with green or blue dial, the blue Tudor Pelagos, or the new Black Bay 54 in Blue, and even the new Breitling Chronomat Automatic 40 in Ice Blue).

IWC Ingenieur / Photo: Monochrome

It’s fine if you wear your steel sports watch when you’re spending your summer vacation on the beach or in the water. But to me, this is the time when I try to really switch off, so I want to feel a bit different from usual, and the watch I wear adds to that feeling. To me, a summer watch is something brighter and more colorful than usual, because something has to be different. And to be honest, with many watches, just changing the bracelet for a bright strap does the job. In a city or a business setting, put your dress watch on a light blue nubuck or suede strap like this one from Molequin and you get a very summery vibe without compromising the elegance of the watch. Or if you have a sports watch, put it on a bright rubber strap.

Cartier Tank on Molequin Riviere nubuck strap / Photo: Molequin

I’m very picky when it comes to watches, so for me, this doesn’t work for those with a black or very dark bezel. These are classic styles that just look off when paired with bright rubber straps. For me, a summer watch is something with a steel bezel and a bright dial. If you have such a watch, put it on a bright rubber strap and you’ve got a summer watch, it’s a very simple recipe. There aren’t that many luxury watches with colorful details, so every time I see one, it instantly reminds me of summer.

Bamford x Girard-Perregaux ‘Deep Diver’ / Photo: BWD

A watch release from last year that got me thinking about summer vacation is the Bamford x Girard-Perregaux ‘Deep Diver’. Great summer colors, and if you put it on the orange rubber strap (one comes with the watch), it’s almost the perfect summer watch (it’s too big, in my opinion).

There’s a very similar color combination on the Doxa Sub 200T, only this one has much nicer proportions (39x41.5mm case) and is a lot cheaper!

Doxa Sub 200T/ Photo: Doxa

There is also a very subtle orange Speedmaster with black dial and a touch of orange in the details. Orange rubber transforms this watch into a great summer option, but the face of the watch is black, so it’s still a no for me. Also Serica’s Ref. 5303-2 looks amazing with a bright strap! There are also some Nomos watches with a coral dial.

At this point, it’s probably clear that details in orange are what scream summer to me. I’m not sure why, but to me, bright orange and yellow on a watch feels more casual and relaxed than any other color. I also like the Doxa Sub 200T’s in yellow or orange, I think the balance on the yellow one is fantastic. There is also Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with a bright yellow dial, and Baltic Hermétique Summer collection with bright dials like summer yellow.

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date / Photo: Oris

A bright light blue dial is another one that screams summer to me. Probably because it reminds me of the bright blue summer sky, or even swimming pools and water in general. It’s a color that’s more common on watches than orange or yellow, but still not as common as classic navy blue or green. A perfect example of a perfect light blue summer dial is this Farer Cobb III – Final Edition. This one is probably very close to my definition of a perfect summer dial, with a combination of light blue and cream, plus a hint of orange and yellow. Put it on a light blue or yellow rubber strap (or nubuck if you want to wear it in the city), and you’ve got a perfect summer watch. A very nice light blue option was also this Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 - Limited Edition.

Farer Cobb III - Final Edition / Photo: Farer

And even though it’s not a color I’d usually consider a summer option, this new Oris with an earth green dial is very nice. Light shade of green, not as bright as most options above. A great option if you prefer something fresh and unusual, but want to keep it a bit more subtle than bright orange or yellow. And in this more subtle category I would also add the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual in Pistachio and Beige.

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 / Photo: Oris

I'm sharing my idea of a summer watch, but as I mentioned, I'd only wear a rubber strap on a summer holiday, when I'm spending most of my time by the beach or in the water. When I’m back in the city, wearing trousers and jeans, I wouldn’t put a rubber strap on my wrist. To me, it just doesn’t work with classic fabrics. That’s when you wear nubuck, suede, or leather straps (for those, I always recommend Molequin), or a steel bracelet.

In the city, I probably wouldn't wear most of the watches mentioned above. But there are a couple of very subtle watches, with just the right pop of colour, that can also be worn all year round. Now, this might sound like I'm repeating myself, but my favourite watch of that sort is the Breitling Top Time B31 with a white and light blue dial. It was released last spring, and for me it's one of the best-looking watches in a very long time. It has a very well-balanced dial and comes in a very clean, vintage-looking round case that's also the perfect size at 38 mm.

Breitling Top Time B31 / Photo: Mayors

On a steel bracelet, it feels like a classic sports watch, but on a brown leather strap, it completely changes the aesthetic and becomes a very cool, vintage-looking watch. But if you put it on a light blue or yellow rubber strap, it's a perfect summer watch. It also works great with more elegant outfits, just put it on a light brown, sand, or even light blue suede or nubuck strap, and you have a very clean and elegant watch.

In my opinion, this is one of the very few watches that can do it all. I currently wear mine on a Riviere nubuck strap from Molequin, and it's such a stunner. In this combination, it's a great conversation starter and definitely the watch I've received the most compliments on, mostly from people who aren't watch enthusiasts.

Breitling Top Time B31 on original brown leather strap

Let me know if you've ever thought about the idea of a summer watch, or if you totally disagree and think a watch is just a watch, no matter the season.

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