Designing the Perfect Cap: My Approach to Everyday Menswear
When I was younger, I used to wear fitted baseball caps. I still think they look good when you slightly curve the brim to fit your head width, as the whole cap changes shape a bit and feels much more natural. Still, I think the shape of a classic baseball cap is a bit too square to work with anything other than sportswear, and especially not with tailoring. On the other hand, the currently very popular “dad caps” have a much lower front panel and are completely unconstructed, so they often look like they were just placed on top of the head. Plus, if you have a flatter top of the head, like I do, they’re not very flattering.
Another option is the trucker hat, which has its own charm and can look great with western or more rock’n’roll-inspired outfits, but again, it doesn’t really work for me. So after struggling to find the ‘perfect’ cap for years, I knew I wanted to create something that would fill that gap. This opportunity came when I started discussing the details of the “A Tribute to Ivy” collection with the guys at Poszetka.
A cap is one of the most casual elements of Ivy League style. Back then, the caps they wore were closer to what we now call a “dad cap”, which was also the base for my design. From there, I added elements from other cap styles and tweaked them: a higher, more structured front panel (but still lower and more angled than a classic baseball cap), and a slightly pointier top that leans a bit towards a trucker cap.
The brim is a bit longer and wider than on a dad cap, but not as large as on a baseball cap, and it’s also more curved. The updated shape and proportions bring a subtle old-school American feel to it. I’d describe it as a slightly sportier version of a retro baseball cap, with a softer, less rigid construction that makes it feel more casual and clean.
We went through eight prototypes to get to a design I was happy with. During that process I also leared that a perfect cap doesn’t exist - this one is great for normal or wider faces, but it might not look as good on narrower ones. Once you curve the brim past a certain point, the proportions shift and the top part of the crown can appear wider than the bottom. That also made me understand why big cap brands offer different sizes - it’s simply not possible to create one cap that works perfectly on every head shape.
The caps are made from 100% cotton twill so they are perfect for wearing all year round. For this collection I chose two classic, very versatile colorways: navy with white embroidery, and off-white with navy embroidery. Both feature the “In good company” embroidery - a reminder to keep the right people close and invest your energy into relationships that matter. At the same time, it’s a small nod to the idea that if you’re looking at this cap, you’re probably at least a bit interested in classic menswear and quality brands, and in this space, most people tend to be good company as well.
I’m really happy with how the caps turned out, and I wear them every time I don’t feel like styling my hair. Even if you don’t wear caps often, they’re a perfect accessory for hot summer months when you want a bit of head protection. And if you decide to get one, don’t forget to curve the brim to your head width to get the best fit (so it’s not wider than your face).
Available to shop here in navy or off-white.
And if you want to learn more about the “A Tribute to Ivy” collection, read this article.
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