Is There Such a Thing as a Summer Watch?

It might have something to do with the fact that I just booked a few days by the sea, but I’ve been really into summer watches lately.

Is there such a thing as a summer watch? The answer to that question is, like many things when it comes to style, very personal. Some will say that a steel sports watch is a perfect summer watch, and I totally agree. A steel sports watch is something that works for every occasion, so it’s a perfect choice in the summer. But I guess every watch can be a summer watch - it depends on where you are and what you do. In this article, I want to talk about my idea of a summer watch.

My Rolex GMT “Pepsi”

What I would call a summer watch is what you wear on your vacation, when you’re dressed as relaxed as it gets, probably most of the time in swim shorts with an open shirt or maybe a polo. In my mind, this watch is like a very relaxed version of a sports watch. For example, I think the Rolex GMT Pepsi is a great all-around summer watch. The blue and red pop in the sunshine, but it’s still very subtle and can be worn with most casual outfits. And there are many watches that fit into that category, most steel sports watches with colorful bezels and dials. (The new IWC Ingenieur with green or blue dial is a great option, or the blue Tudor Pelagos come to mind first).

IWC Ingenieur / Photo: Monochrome

It’s fine if you wear your steel sports watch when you’re spending your summer vacation on the beach or in the water. But to me, this is the time when I try to really turn off, so I want to feel a bit different than I usually do, and a watch adds to this vibe. To me, a summer watch is something brighter and more colorful than usual, because something has to be different. And to be honest, with many watches, just changing the bracelet for a bright strap does the job. In a city or a business setting, put your dress watch on a light blue nubuck or suede strap like this one from Molequin and you get a very summery vibe without compromising the elegance of the watch. Or if you have a sports watch, put it on a bright rubber strap.

Cartier Tank on Molequin Riviere strap / Photo: Molequin

I’m very picky when it comes to watches, so for me, this doesn’t work for those with a black or very dark bezel. These are classic styles that just look off when paired with bright rubber straps. For me, a summer watch is something with a steel bezel and a bright dial. If you have such a watch, put it on a bright rubber strap and you’ve got a summer watch, it’s a very simple recipe. There aren’t that many luxury watches with colorful details, so every time I see one, it instantly reminds me of summer.

Bamford x Girard-Perregaux ‘Deep Diver’ / Photo: BWD

A first watch release that got me thinking about summer vacation this year was the new Bamford x Girard-Perregaux ‘Deep Diver’. Great summer colors, and if you put it on the orange rubber strap (one comes with the watch), it’s almost the perfect summer watch (it’s too big, in my opinion).

There’s a very similar color combination on the Doxa Sub 200T, only this one has much nicer proportions (39x41.5mm case) and is a lot cheaper! If this one is too small, you can get her bigger sister (42.5x44.5mm) in the same color. And if you want it even more casual, put it on a rubber strap - navy or orange!

Doxa Sub 200T/ Photo: Doxa

Omega just released an orange Speedmaster, which is a lot more subtle - black dial with a touch of orange in the details. Orange rubber transforms this watch into a great summer option, but the face of the watch is black, so it’s still a no for me.

Last year, Hermès released H08 with an orange rubber strap, and I just learned that there’s also an option with a yellow strap. (Yes, I also never thought I’d be mentioning a Hermès watch, but here we are).

Hermès H08 / Photo: Hermès

This one is not exactly orange, but Nomos released a couple of watches with a coral dial, which have a very similar effect. At this point, it’s probably clear that details in orange are what scream summer to me. I’m not sure why, but to me, bright orange on a watch feels more casual and relaxed than any other color. Next is probably yellow, but there really aren’t that many watches with yellow details available. However, I saw that Oris recently released a Big Crown Pointer Date with a bright yellow dial. And Baltic released their Hermétique Summer collection, which includes one in summer yellow.

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date / Photo: Oris

A bright light blue dial is another one that screams summer to me. Probably because it reminds me of the bright blue summer sky, or even swimming pools and water in general. It’s a color that’s more common on watches than orange or yellow, but still not as common as classic navy blue or green. A perfect example of a perfect light blue summer dial is this Farer Cobb III – Final Edition. This one is probably very close to my definition of a perfect summer dial, with a combination of light blue and cream, plus a hint of orange and yellow. Put it on a light blue or yellow rubber strap (or nubuck if you want to wear it in the city), and you’ve got a perfect summer watch. A very nice light blue option is also this Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 – Limited Edition.

Farer Cobb III - Final Edition / Photo: Farer

And even though it’s not a color I’d usually consider a summer option, this new Oris with an earth green dial is very nice. Light shade of green, not as bright as most options above. A great option if you prefer something fresh and unusual, but want to keep it a bit more subtle than bright orange or yellow.

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 / Photo: Oris

I’m sharing my idea of a summer watch, but as I mentioned, I’d only wear a rubber strap on a summer holiday, when I’m spending most of my time on or around the beach and water. When I’m back in the city, wearing trousers and jeans, I wouldn’t put a rubber strap on my wrist. To me, it just doesn’t work with classic fabrics. That’s when you wear nubuck, suede, or leather straps (for those, I always recommend Molequin), or a steel bracelet.

In the city, I probably wouldn’t wear most of the watches mentioned above. But there are a couple of very subtle watches, with just the right pop of color, that can do it all, and can also be worn all year round. And now this will sound like I’m repeating myself, but the first such watch that comes to mind is the new Breitling Top Time B31 with a white and light blue dial. It was released this spring, and I still think it’s one of the best-looking watches in a very long time. It has a very well-balanced dial and comes in a very clean, vintage-looking round case that’s also the perfect size at 38mm.

Breitling Top Time B31 / Photo: Mayors

When you wear it on a steel bracelet, it’s a classic sports watch. Then you put it on a brown leather strap and it really changes the whole aesthetic and becomes a very cool vintage-looking watch. And then you put it on a light blue or yellow rubber strap, and it’s a perfect summer watch. But if you want to wear it with a more elegant outfit, you can put it on a suede or nubuck strap in light brown, sand, or even light blue and you have a very clean and elegant watch. In my opinion, this is one of the very few watches that can do it all.

Breitling Top Time B31 / Photo: Breitling

Let me know if you’ve ever thought about the idea of a summer watch, or if you totally disagree with it and think a watch is a watch in every season.

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