My Favorite New Watches – Spring 2026 (Watches and Wonders)
How I perceive watches and what I like has slightly changed over the last couple of years. I mentioned this a couple of times already, but I think it’s partly because of a change in my personal taste, but partly also because most new watches from the biggest brands are overhyped and send the wrong message. This is probably more the brand’s fault than the watches themselves. I already voiced my disagreement with everything that modern Rolex stands for, but that doesn’t change the fact that vintage Rolexes will, in my opinion, forever be some of the coolest and most masculine watches. Almost no other watch has a similar vibe and aesthetic as a vintage Submariner or GMT that has been worn for a few decades. So when I see a nice vintage example, I will always stop and admire it.
So for the last year or two, I’ve tried to separate a watch from the brand and from my opinion only on how much I like the watch itself - the design, proportions, materials, colors, finish, and how wearable I think it is. That’s why my favorite watch release last year was the Breitling Top Time B31, a watch from a brand I hadn’t really considered for many years, because their watches were mainly too big for my taste. But on the other hand, it also makes sense, since one of my favorite Breitling watches of all time is the Unitime World Timer 1-260, which I also believe was one of the main inspirations behind the Top Time B31. (You can read about my favorite release from last year’s Watches and Wonders here.)
A couple of weeks before Watches and Wonders, Serica released the new Ref. 5330 - their diver, but now available with a date. It’s a great size, with proportions of a vitage diver. And I generally dislike almost everything in grey, but this polished grey bezel is really subtle, and the color changes with reflections, so it never really feels grey. It’s also one of those subtle watches that will look great on every strap.
Another independent brand, Baltic, released the new Heures du Monde Worldtimer. This is a really interesting one - a worldtimer in a 37mm case, and with a stone dial! A very unusual combination, but I think it looks great. It’s available in three colorways.
Just before Watches and Wonders, Longines released the new HydroConquest, which is now available in 39 and 42mm. It has a completely new look, and it comes in plenty of new colorways. I think it’s a great watch and amazing value, but I’m not a big fan of ceramic bezels and bold colors. The frosted blue dial with the black bezel on a Milanese strap looks great though.
Universal Genève also unveiled their novelties a couple of days earlier as well. The Cabriolet looks very cool, but I would have to see it in person to really form my opinion, I’m afraid it might be just a bit too big. I have to admit that I was way more impressed with their women’s watches, both because of how well executed and beautiful they are. Real pieces of art!
Now to the releases from Watches and Wonders, starting with Rolex - I don’t want to lose too many words on their novelties, as there isn’t really any that appeal to me (even though the new green dial Day-Date in yellow gold is cool), but the most interesting, or important, news is that the “Pepsi” colorway of the GMT II was discontinued. I think this is one of the most iconic watches of all time, so it should always be available, and it will probably be back in a couple of years when they update the GMT. I still haven’t had the time to sell mine, so maybe this will now motivate me a bit.
Tudor updated the Black Bay 58, it is now a full 0.2mm thinner! I think they missed the opportunity to make the Black Bay 54 in a vintage blue or navy. This new shade is too artificial/modern in my opinion. The new Monarch is a cool watch, but I think 39mm is too big for such a watch. 35–36mm would be perfect.
Nomos released a very clean colorway of the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer - one of the most versatile versions of this model yet.
The IWC Ingenieur 35 now comes with a new blue dial, and it’s a beauty! They also released the new Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in titanium, which is an amazing watch as well, but maybe a bit too monochromatic for my taste. I would prefer some color or contrast on the dial. I also like the new Pilot Automatic 36 Le Petit Prince, I’m sure this one wears great!
Vacheron Constantin released some incredible watches this year, but the highlight is definitely the new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin, which comes in a platinum 39.5mm case that is only 7.35mm thick! It’s a beautiful watch with amazing proportions, but my favorite Vacheron release this year is the new American 1921 in 36.5mm. The American is one of the coolest watches ever made, and this is, in my opinion, the perfect size. The gold case with the grained silver dial and contrasting blue details looks great, but if I could choose, I would prefer more neutral colors.
Jaeger-LeCoultre released the Master Control Chronometre - a new sport watch on an integrated bracelet, available in three models. This model comes in a 39mm case with 9.2mm thickness, and the most impressive is the Perpetual Calendar version, which comes in steel and pink gold.
They also released the new Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Waterfalls Series, continuing to pay homage to Hokusai, one of Japan’s most influential 19th-century artists. This series consists of four limited editions, and every edition comes in just 10 pieces. Each watch unites a hand-guilloché and enamel dial with a miniature-painted caseback, requiring nearly 100 hours of meticulous work. These are not watches, but pieces of art. Just stunning!
Patek brought back the Nautilus for its 50th anniversary. They made 38mm and 41mm Jumbo versions. The new 38mm, ref. 5610/1P-001, is a homage to the old ref. 3800 models, with a 38mm by 6.9mm platinum case, no date, no center seconds, a full platinum bracelet, and a diamond set into the 9 o’clock ear. Both models on a bracelet are limited to 2000 pieces each. And no matter how overhyped these watches are, I think the 38mm ref. 5610/1P-001 is the ultimate Nautilus.
It looks like very thin sports watches are back, and I’m definitely here for it!
Chopard released the new L.U.C. 1860 in 36.5mm, and I think it’s perfect. It’s a beautiful dress watch with perfect size and proportions, which can also have a bit of a sporty vibe depending on the bracelet. The dial is beautifully balanced, so it doesn’t feel busy, but it’s definitely not too plain. The only thing I would change is the strap, because I don’t like grey, I would rather put it on a nice black or brown alligator.
A. Lange & Söhne released the new Saxonia Annual Calendar in 36mm and showed that it’s possible to pack an annual calendar movement into such a small, elegant case (9.8mm thickness). This is another beautiful dress watch from them.
I think Cartier came up with the strongest lineup this year (again?). I didn’t know what to expect from them, but I was pleasantly surprised. All the new releases are very tasteful reinterpretations of their classics, which is exactly how I believe it should be done. The Cartier Privé La Collection is amazing, I especially like the gold Tank Normale, but also the Tank Cintrée. And I like them even more because they all come with brushed finishes. And a good thing is that most of these new watches should be possible to normally buy (except the Crash, which is limited to 150 pieces).
Anders & Co released their first mechanical watch - the AC2 Volcán Manual Wind. A modern take on a very retro design, now finally available with a mechanical movement. 37mm case with only 6.65mm thickness! Available in 3 colorways. I think these are very cool!
And Hamilton released their famous Khaki Field Mechanical watch in a 36mm version, which I think is a great addition to the classic 38mm version.
Let me know your thoughts about the new watches. Did anything catch your attention this year?
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A look at my favorite new watches from Watches and Wonders 2026, based on design, proportions, and everyday wearability rather than hype. From understated dress pieces to well-sized sports models, these are the releases that stood out to me this season.