The History and Versatility of Navy Blazer
Ralph Lauren in Navy Blazer
When it comes to a men's wardrobe, there is probably no piece as classic and versatile as a navy blazer. But let’s start with a question: what exactly is a blazer? The Oxford English Dictionary describes it as “a coloured jacket worn by schoolchildren or sports players as part of a uniform” or “a plain jacket not forming part of a suit but considered appropriate for formal wear.” The Oxford American Dictionary describes it as “a sports jacket not worn with matching trousers.” The latter is probably the simplest way to define this garment. Not only are there more definitions for this garment, but there are also more theories about its origin, and two theories are more common than the rest.
The first story dates back to 1825, when twelve members of St. John’s College (University of Cambridge) founded The Lady Margaret Boat Club. To identify themselves at regattas, they wore scarlet red flannel jackets. The blazing red color of the jackets made them so striking on the water that they called them blazers. Soon, many of the other colleges followed this practice, and this was the birth of the Rowing Blazers. Over time, people started using the word to describe other similar jackets.
The Lady Margaret Boat Club (© Carlson Media Inc, from Rowing Blazers)
The second story dates back to 1837, when Queen Victoria visited a Royal Navy ship named "HMS Blazer," and the commander of the ship decided to provide new uniforms for his men to impress the Queen. He chose a double-breasted jacket with brass Royal Navy buttons as part of the uniform. It’s important to note that, back then, the Royal Navy did not have standard uniforms for sailors, so many commanders set their own dress codes for sailors, with almost no uniformity between ships. Queen Victoria was impressed with the uniform, and the double-breasted navy blazer became part of the Royal Navy’s official uniform in 1857. From then on, the jacket style was called a blazer, named after HMS Blazer.
Royal Naval uniform: pattern 1857 (photo from Royal Museums Greenwich)
In the late 1800s, rowing clubs, especially at Cambridge and Oxford, started wearing blazers as part of their uniform. These early blazers were in bright colors and had club crests. Students soon wore them to represent their house or sports team. Over time, blazers became popular in other sports, like cricket and golf.
In the 1920s, more men started wearing navy blazers with brass buttons to sporting events. Members of sports clubs, especially yachting clubs, wore blazers with their club’s emblem on the chest pocket. By the end of the decade, colleges and prep schools in England, Europe, and the U.S. made navy blazers part of their uniforms. Navy blazers had flap pockets, while school blazers had patch pockets and often displayed the school crest on the chest pocket. Both types had brass buttons with emblems for regiments, clubs, or schools.
After World War II, military uniforms had a big impact on fashion, and the navy blazer, with its simple style, became popular. In the U.S., it became a key element of Ivy League style, worn with khakis, button-down shirts, and loafers. It quickly became a symbol of classic American menswear. Navy blazers became a common work outfit for men and an essential element of the preppy style that emerged in the 1950s.
A blazer still symbolizes victory in two sporting events today: the winner of the Masters Golf Tournament in Augusta, Georgia, receives a green blazer, and the winner of the Congressional Cup Regatta at the Long Beach Yacht Club is awarded a crimson blazer.
Masters winners in their green Blazers
A single-breasted navy blazer with brass buttons is an Ivy style icon and one of the most common versions worn by menswear enthusiasts today. It's popular mostly because it’s so easy to wear — it's usually paired with an oxford shirt, a tie, and khakis, but it works just as well with a white T-shirt and jeans. The double-breasted version with brass buttons has a more serious, military appeal, but today it’s usually worn with very casual looks. If you're not a fan of brass buttons, cleaner versions usually have horn or mother of pearl buttons, which depends if you want your buttons to still stand out a bit or totally blend with the jacket. I usually associate these “clean” versions with summer outfits. What you prefer will come down to your personal preference, but nobody can deny how versatile a navy blazer is. You can wear it with almost any type of trousers — khaki, grey, olive, white, any wash of jeans, or even with fatigues for a very casual, military-inspired look.
Below are some of my favorite outfit options with navy blazer.
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Image from Ralph Lauren lookbook
Let me know what is your favourite way to wear a Navy Blazer.
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